Water Sports
And the thing about panicking when you're forty feet under the ocean's surface is that you can drown, and you know you can drown. In fact, you can't breathe without your regulator even if you're not panicking. You're also not supposed to hold your breath, because there's pressure underwater. That means if you're not breathing out bubbles while the regulator is out, your chest might expand until it explodes.
Y el problema de tener un ataque de pánico cuando estás a cuarenta pies por debajo de la superficie del océano es que te puedes ahogar, y sabes muy bien que te puedes ahogar. De hecho, sin el regulador es imposible respirar, aun si estuvieras tranquilo. Tampoco debes contener la respiración debido a la presión que hay en el agua. El caso es que si no estás respirando y sacando burbujas porque has perdido el regulador, tu pecho puede expandirse hasta explotar.
My mouth was open. I know that because when I did the face-plant into the bottom of the wave, I was gargling salt water, thinking that maybe I was about to die. The wave drove me deep into the water. I flapped my arms around, thinking that going back up to the surface was a good idea.
But it wasn't. At least not then.
I surfaced just in time to open my eyes and see my airborne surfboard eclipsing the morning sun. And aimed straight for my head. Wham.
